Monday, October 10, 2011

Hey Poland, I’m a big fan!



Have you noticed that vacations have this weird ability to feel so long and yet way too short?  Like it was years ago when you left, but the time there passed much too quickly?  I guess it just goes to show that the theory of relativity is alive and well :)

This past week, I had the much-needed opportunity to travel to Poland and spend a few short and wonderful days touring the city, eating sooooo much delicious food, shopping like a mad woman, seeing some incredible sites and monuments, and just having a general good time.  It was so nice to get out of Kiev, explore a new city, and experience a new culture.  And let me say, I’m a big fan of Poland.  I never expected to like it nearly as much as I did.  The only thing that would have made it better would have been if I had “randomly” run in to one of my favorite roommates, Amy, who is serving a mission in Poland.  No such luck.  But I don’t really know if I would have had the guts to try to see her :) Anyways, back to Poland… if I could stay and teach in Krakow, I definitely would (unless I could teach in Germany or Switzerland… then I’d really jump ship).  It had a much more ‘clean European feel’ (which I LOVE), that I don’t always feel in Kyiv.  The parks were gorgeous, the city was easy to navigate, the people all SMILED AND WERE OPENLY FRIENDLY (!!!!), the food was to die for, and the history, while heartbreaking, is so critical to my identity as a human being.

By far, the most memorable experience I had this past week was visiting the two concentration camps at Auschwitz and Birkenau.  I don’t even know how to summarize or even express how I felt while visiting Auschwitz.  With equal parts reverence, horror, love, anger, awe, and despair, I saw what remains of the horrific and famous concentration camp.  Although the land and camp itself are aesthetically beautiful nowadays (except for the double barbed wire fences surrounding the area, it was actually quite picturesque with green trees and rolling countryside around), it was appalling to think of its history and purpose.  As I witnessed some of the horror that was the camp at Auschwitz, it was next to impossible for me to fathom how a person could be so callous and cold so as to be able to murder thousands of men, women, and children.  In one day.  How did their hearts not scream each time they helped fulfill the Nazi regime’s commands?  Maybe they did.  I hope they did.  I wish they could have stopped it before it started.  I know this has been said, but I hope and pray that I would have had the courage to say no--- to look past the falsities, the propaganda, the hatred and really love a human being simply for being a human being.   I hope, I pray. 

And I know this is probably naive, but I also found myself thinking that it would have been so much easier for an individual Jew to deny to their faith and heritage.  To save themselves, their family.  (And then I wonder if I would have had the same faith, conviction, and courage.  Once again, I hope and pray that I would.  I hope that I would not deny all that I am, all that I value, all that I know.)   I wonder if any of them did, or tried to.  Even though that probably wouldn’t have saved them.  But to stand with courage and accept the hatred and torture simply because of their faith and their heritage?  That’s where the awe, reverence, and love come into my experience.  I was overwhelmed with a love and sorrow for the thousands of human beings who were imprisoned, tortured, and killed within this ‘camp’s’ walls.   No human being deserves that kind of treatment.  No animal deserves that kind of treatment.  And maybe that’s how it all happened.  I believe that the Jews must have become so dehumanized in the eyes of the Nazis and Nazi supporters that they were viewed as something much less than a human; something that didn’t deserve their love or even their concern.  That they were something that was ok to kill by the thousands.   

The most heart wrenching exhibit within Auschwitz was one room filled with the actual hair that was shaved off of the prisoners upon their arrival at Auschwitz all those years ago.  The hair on display was only a small percentage of the hair that was collected, and yet it still filled the room.  It physically made me nauseous to see.  As superficial as it may be, as a girl, hair is so much of a part of my physical identity, and to see so much hair brutally removed and set aside, waiting to be woven into blankets horrified me.  Everything was taken from these human beings, even down to the hair that grew on their heads.  How could one be so cruel? 

After Auschwitz, I then travelled the short distance to Birkenau.  Birkenau is mostly demolished – only a few buildings stand in their entirety.  However, the hundreds of brick chimneys that were in each building still stand like a skeleton of the monster that was there.  These chimneys go on for what seems like miles.  They are a hauntingly large reminder of the terror that must have been felt by each of the prisoners.   The remains of two of the gas chambers also survive, surrounded by a monument.  It was truly shocking to see the size.  Unimaginable to think of it filled with human beings.  Terrifying. 

I will forever remember Auschwitz and Birkenau.  I hope that I will remember just how out of control a group of people can get and make sure that I always make decisions that are MY decisions and that I know are right.  I must make sure to love every person, even if for no other reason than the fact that they are a person, and hopefully for the thousand other reasons too. 

And after that, I have almost no way to transition.  So I’m just going to change topics.  Krakow.

Krakow, like I said, was wonderful,  I really loved it.  I got the chance to do so much there… once again, I’m not even going to try to summarize it.  The highlights will have to do. 

The city felt much more like a European city than Kiev--- pretty buildings, random streets, and tons of cute cafes.  It was so nice to just walk around and see the history and the people.  Everyone was so nice too!  (AND… drum roll please… the cars even STOPPED to let you cross in the crosswalk!  That NEVER happens here in Kyiv.  You literally have to run in between cars to ever make it across the road--- I feel like a real life, high-stakes, frogger game every day!).  The city was also very culturally rich - there were a couple of beautiful cathedrals, an impressive castle complex, and a gorgeous square downtown.  It really is a perfect little city. 

Being a girl and living with a bunch of girls really helps bring out the girly side of life.  So, in keeping with sounding like a complete girl, I have to say - the shopping was so fun :) They had this mall called the Galeria Krakow, and it was neat to just wander and stop in so many cute shops.  It really felt like I was back in America again!  But, even more fun than the mall was Old Town Krakow.  So many cute and random shops to get lost in!  To top it off, in the central square they had this indoor hallway that was full of booths on each side.   All of us girls bought amber rings and souvenirs for our families.  It felt like a classy Mexico :)

My favorite part of my time in Krakow (other than Auschwitz) was the opportunity I had to see the city from a bike.  On our last day there, a big group of us rented these cute old cruiser bikes with bike bells and just toured the city.  I loved it.  Like a little flock of geese, we pedaled around the busy streets of Old Town, climbed the hill to the castle, and just enjoyed life.   It was so fun!

But, let’s be honest, this trip wasn’t all relaxation.  At all.  In fact, I literally didn’t sleep the first two nights, compliments of a Ukrainian overnight train and then an overnight bus-ride across into Poland.  Yuck-o.  

The train.  Well, let’s just say, if I never have to spend a night on one of those again, I will die happy.  At first I was really excited --- a cool train to a new city, all in a bunk bed? Awesome.  But then the stinky (literally) truth hit me.   Let’s just say that being jammed into a bunk bed that is much too short for my body on a train that is sweltering hot next to a nude, snoring man isn’t really ideal conditions for sleep.  Haha.  But, in all fairness, it did get me there.  So I guess I shouldn’t rag on it too much… but, seriously, I don’t ever want to do that again.  One time was WAY enough for me!  Luckily we flew back to Kyiv from Poland so I didn’t have to relive the horrors :) jk. 

All in all, it really was a wonderful trip.  I may have come back more exhausted than I left, but it was completely worth it.  So wonderful :)  It just made me feel good to get out and live!

In a psychology class that I took about a year ago, the teacher made a big deal of achieving and recognizing a “sense of well being.”  When I am home in America, I believe that because this general sense of well being is fairly constant in my life, I don’t recognize it as poignantly.  I am fairly consistently happy and secure at home.  However, being in Ukraine has stripped me of this sense of security.  I’m still very happy, but life is very different for me now.  And, in an odd way, I am thankful for that.  This complete change has really caused me to consider my life as I know it.  I find myself constantly making lists in my head of things, people, and places that I’ll be so thankful to see again when I go home, ranging from the trivial to the serious.  For example – “when I go home, I’m going to sit myself down and really enjoy a cup of cold cereal, dangit!” Or “When I go home, I’m going to be so thankful for my sheets and my bed.” Or “I just can’t wait to give my parents a hug and tell them again how much they mean to me.”

Anyways, back to what I was originally going to write.  While I have been in Ukraine, and especially during my time in Poland, I have been struck at random moments with a resounding sense of “well-being.”  Whether it be when I’m walking by myself after successfully navigating the metro or matschrutka, or when I’m riding my bike through the town square, or when I’m enjoying a surprisingly sunny afternoon, this sense of ‘well-being’ creeps up on me, and it almost brings me to tears.  Life is good to me, and I worry that I don’t always appreciate it as much as I should.  Thank you Ukraine and Poland, if for nothing else, making me realize more fully how wonderful life can really be - each and every day.    


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